This time a bit different. I will review more than one wine – I will taste all wines from Domaine Fevre available in Poland – and the king of our tasting will be 1er Cru from Vaulorent.
In the Premier Cru category, we remain on the right bank … Vaulorent is probably the best of Premier Cru (I know, I know … sounds familliar ? I begin all my review with this statement – see Fourchaume and Montee de Tonnerre review😊). But why is the Vaulorent “top of the top?” – because it is located on the same hill as Grand Cru wineyeards (Vaulorent is a direct neighbor of such plots as Preuses and Bourgros). In theory – the wines of this “climat” derive the best of what Chablis gives – minerality and fresh citrus – something like Fourchaume, but with a little upgrade. Will these wine meet expectations … we will see. After the tasting I will try to put the article entitled “6 things about Vaulorent that you want to know”.
I bought these wines at the winezja.pl online store in the Easter promotion – 1er Cru for about 120 PLN (40% discount), Chablis for around 69 PLN, and Petit Chablis for 59 PLN. Yes, yes … it’s worth looking for special opportunities like Black Friday, X-mas or Eastern Promotions etc. In the same promotion I bought for PLN 68 Drouhin Domaine de Vaudon Chablis – a wine from which I started my adventure and love for white burgundy wine. I will inform you about the tasting 😉
At the beggining, I have to tell a bit about the classification of wines from Chablis, so that the reader can understand “what is the matter”.
Going from the worst qualitatively to the best we have: Petit Chablis, Chablis, 1er Cru or so-called Premier Cru and finally Grand Cru. As you can guess just a substitute for what the A.O.C. gives, you will find in Petit Chablis- mostly because in the geological structure there is no mythical Kimberian limestone but less quality the Portland limestone. These wines are usually strongly acidic, strongly citrusy, not very mineral – sometimes they resemble more water with the addition of citric acid than the pure Chablis. Worse quality compensates with the price – 50 – 60 PLN is the price that we should not exceed when purchasing these wines. Then we have Chablis – the flagship product of this wine region – there are more restrictive appellation regulations like – less planting per hectare, lower yield per hectare, and thus we have better quality of wine,especially better mineralness (in the geological structure appears Kimmerian limestone, while Portland limestone still dominates). Unfortunately, A.O.C Chablis is still expanding its boarders … and nowadays these wines can be unpredictable – here we have outstanding wines for 100-130 PLN as well as a poor quality ones for even 25 PLN (Chablis from Lidl on the Black Friday Discount in 2018). I will not write about wines from 1er Cru and Grand Cru parcels, because amost every article bring up this subject, and a Reder might find important information by simply subscribing my blog.
Let’s take a look at the “trinity”, that came to me and are waiting for degustation in my” Le Sommelier “winery:
Of course, the etiquette and bottle is a matter of taste … unfortunately the orange color of Chablis (right) is downright nasty! Like a warning sign on the road :-). A bottle from Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fèvre, because that’s the whole name of the Producer, looks weak in comparison with labels such as Louis Jadot or, for example, William Fevre.
But let’s not prejudge the result. Time for a tasting!
Petit Chablis goes on the first fire – vintage 2017, not barrel-filled, ready to drink right now.
- Color: light straw-colored
- Nose: Citrus dominates, the pear discretely emerges in the background. Sizable alcohol when sniffing nose in the empty glass.
- Palate: Too much acidity for me, Poorly balanced. Minerality NONE. The finish is quite long, unfortunately – lemon.
Summary: Unfortunately, I will not change my opinion that Petit Chablis is not my favorite. Excessive price, you do not get what you are looking for in Chablis. Wine, unfortunately, to be forgotten.
Let’s go to the next wine … Chablis, vintage 2017 ( unoaked)
- Color: light straw, a little pale … light-bodied if you know what I mean.
- Nose: Finally – the breeze of Chablis … not flower or fruit aromatic bomb, only a cool note of green apple and pear.
- Palate: Good balance – not sour, not bland .. we have here the mineralness of Chablis (at least its substitute), smoothness and elegance. Citrus finish, moderate.
Summary: if there was a major office for wine-making, this wine would have the honorable title of Chablis model. Drinking this wine you know what is going on in Chablis and you are able to say whether it is your fairy tale or not. This wine, for which you spend 70-90 PLN you do not feel that someone has plucked you off, but that you have drunk something that is worth it. The rating is 86/100 – such solid 86/100 :-).
After such a good wine I can not wait for the king of our tasting… vintage 2016, aged for 12 months in a 225-liter barrel from the french oak – a bottle from Vaulorent…
- Color: It is still not gold that gives a sense of 100% concentration; light straw – the best word to decribe it.
- Nose: Not intrusive citruses, melons, maybe my favorite green apple … but I can smell the notes that comes from the barrel – I mean honey.
- Lips: very well balanced; acidity for a perfect score; good minerality – but still about 75% of Montee de Tonnerre ;-); smooth, pleasant – citrus; short finish – citrus.
Summary: The wine is very pleasant, very drinkable. It gives the best of Chablis – citruses, minerality and above all the asceticism of these wines. When you buy a savignon blanc from the New World, chenin blanc from South Africa or the Loire valley, etc. you usually get a fruit and floral bomb with high acidity. All labels mix after time and you can not remember which wine it is. Here it is different. You feel elegance and “money” with every sip. But back to the grade … Vaulorent = Fourchaume. In a blind – tasting I would have a problem to say which one is Fourchaume or Vaulorent. This time I will give 91/100 😉